After my ‘I Hate China’ week I was badly in need of some beauty – a rare commodity on this (eastern) side of the country. A day’s travel by bus and Boeing found me in Yangshuo, reputedly one of the prettiest places in China. It’s certainly the prettiest I’ve seen.

Yangshuo is a small, southern town on the banks of the Li River, a short distance from the city of Guilin. It was one of the first places in China to attract travellers, mainly for its amazing scenery but also for the rock-climbing opportunities on the karst formations. A laid-back backpacker vibe still permeates the riverside part of town, with most of the Chinese tourists staying on the outskirts or in Guilin and bussing in and out for the sightseeing. Touristy it certainly is, but that goes with the territory when you’re in a place so attractive.

Three days in the warmth of the south, some good western-style cafe food, a good dose of English speakers and I Hate China has been replaced with, well, I Can Tolerate a Bit More China.